It hit me: I’ve been traveling internationally for over a decade now. That’s not nothing. For someone who’s always been fascinated by the world, it feels quietly significant, something I smile about. Something I’m proud of, in the soft, private way you are when you know how far you’ve come.

So I started thinking about how I’ve changed as a traveler. Not just the kind of trips I take, but how I take them or how I move through the world. The intentions, the habits, the quiet evolution that happened along the way.

Have you ever pondered how you travel? What influences your choices, what you seek, or why you go at all?

I used to approach travel with a level of precision that could rival military logistics. I’d fill in detailed itineraries, triple-check my bookings, and send my plans to people back home, you know, just in case. Partly, it was for safety. But if I’m being honest, part of it was guilt. Guilt for leaving. Guilt for choosing myself for a while. I wanted the people I loved to know I was being responsible, that I hadn’t just disappeared. I’ve never liked being a burden. And maybe that was my way of easing the weight.

There were also practical reasons, especially for someone who needed visas. If I didn’t have my act together, I risked not going at all. Having a system helped. It made the dream possible.

And of course, there was the pressure to make it count. When you’ve worked hard, saved carefully, and made trade-offs to earn a trip, there’s this urge to squeeze the most out of every second. I wanted to see everything. To gather stories like souvenirs for the people I couldn’t bring with me. Looking back, it came from love. But also from this sense that I had to justify it all somehow.

These days, things are softer. Slower. I still plan, but not every detail. I book what needs to be booked, then let the rest unfold. I’ve come to care more about how a place makes me feel than how many landmarks I can tick off. I trust my instincts. I leave space for detours, for stillness, for the kinds of moments that don’t fit on an itinerary. And somewhere along the way, the guilt eased too.

Because here’s the thing, I know that being able to travel is a privilege. It always has been. I didn’t grow up thinking this was even on the table. I dreamt it, sure. But it felt like something other people did: people with different passports, more money, fewer obligations.

But somewhere along the way, I chose to build a life that made space for it. Sometimes guilt still visits when I think about the disparity or the people and places I leave behind. But I try to meet that feeling with care, not shame. I travel with intention. With respect. With the hope that by living this way, curiously & consciously, I’m not taking more than I give.

More to the point…

How I choose where to go

I don’t spin a globe or throw a dart on a map (I wish I were that daredevil or carefree). I am very much aware of my constraints. It usually starts with a feeling: a book, a piece of music, a craving for something I can’t quite name. Some places call to me like a whisper, not a shout. And I listen. I try to honor that.

Sometimes I want silence. To be somewhere wide open, where I can hear myself think. Other times, I want to dissolve into a city’s chaos: blend in, eat well, and get lost. But I always ask myself: Why here, why now? What am I looking for that I can’t find here, now?

When I choose a place now, I think about:

• Timing – Not just seasons, but seasons of me. What do I need at this point in my life?

• Connection – Can I go beyond surface level? Will I leave knowing more than when I arrived?

• Pace – Can I stay long enough to actually feel the rhythm of a place?

Budget is always part of the equation, but it’s not the first filter I run a destination through. If I’m only choosing a place because it’s cheap, then maybe I’m not that interested in going there to begin with. I travel because something about a place draws me in, not because it fits neatly into a spreadsheet.

Of course, if it’s cheap then that’s a big bonus.

If a destination feels too expensive for what it offers, I take that as a sign that the interest isn’t strong enough. For me, curiosity comes first. If I genuinely want to go somewhere and I can afford it, I’ll make it happen. But if I have to overthink every expense just to pull the trip off, I’ll wait. I’d rather go when I can do it comfortably, on my terms.

Safety is another baseline. I don’t romanticize risk. If a place feels unstable or unsafe, I simply choose somewhere else. That’s not fear, it’s just being practical.

Planning without choking the life out of it

Yes, I plan. I might be more spontaneous now but there is still minimal planning that goes into a planned trip. I get the basics down so I’m not stuck or scrambling, but I’ve learned to leave gaps. That’s where the good stuff lives.

I read about a place beforehand. The messy bits. The proud moments. The politics, the pain, the poetry. Because if I’m going to show up in someone else’s home, the least I can do is care enough to learn. In learning about a place - its history, geography, people, and culture, I feel like I already am on a trip. It gets me excited, like I belong there already, like I share their story too.

My system now:

• Nail the logistics – Flights, shelter, safety. Know how to get from A to B.

• Pick a few things I’m genuinely excited about – Not just the ones on every “Top 5” list. I have my routine though: go on at least one walking tour, maybe book one cultural experience, go to a bookstore, visit the market, and definitely have a go at their local food. And everything else? See next point.

• Leave space for serendipity – The in-between is where the soul of a trip usually lives.
  

I don’t travel to tick a box or complete a checklist anymore. Now, I travel to be moved. And that can’t be scheduled.

Go Deeper

If your trip looks like everyone else’s Instagram feed, you’re probably doing it wrong. I don’t want the just highlight reel. Sure, they’re beautiful and sure I’ll probably go see it but I want the weird parts too. The cracks. The quiet. The local café where no one speaks English (have me speak their language, I’d do it with my big green and wide eyes out of fascination - language enthusiast right here!) and the coffee tastes like earth. The back alley bookstore that smells like forgotten decades.

Some guiding principles I try to follow:

• Walk everywhere. You see more. You feel more.

• Support small and local. Chains don’t need your money. That family-run guesthouse does.

• Learn before you go. Not to show off, just to show up better.

I’ll leave you with this:

• What’s the last place you visited? What did it teach you that you didn’t expect to learn?

• And if you haven’t traveled recently, where do you dream of going? What’s calling you, quietly, like an old friend you haven’t seen in years?

Because maybe the journey isn’t just about the destination. Maybe it’s about what we let go of along the way, what we choose to hold, and what we allow to settle inside us after we leave. Maybe it’s not just about what we see, but how deeply we choose to see, how present we choose to be.

Let’s try to ask ourselves, on our next trip, wherever it may be:

• What do you want to feel rather than just check off?

• What would happen if, for once, you let the experience unfold without forcing the story? Can you trust the space between the plans to guide you to something you never expected?

Let the next time you travel be an invitation to listen, to connect, to simply be. And when you come back, carry something with you that’s not just a souvenir. Carry a quiet shift, a moment of understanding, a new way of seeing.

Wherever you go next, may you find yourself, and may it be exactly where you need to be.

There’s a thrill in planning a getaway without broadcasting it to the world. Keeping our recent four-day escape to Porto under wraps felt liberating, like a personal adventure free from external expectations.

Porto holds a special place in my heart not just because I first visited it alone in the spring of 2016, but also because I studied Portuguese formally through a summer course at Universidade do Porto (albeit online). Returning this time with B, with a better grasp of the language and a deeper appreciation for Portugal, felt like completing a journey I had started years ago.

Getting There

We opted for a convenient flight with Transavia from Paris Orly airport, landing smoothly at Porto’s Francisco Sá Carneiro Airport. Navigating from the airport to the city center was a breeze. We purchased reloadable Andante cards and selected the Z4 zone for our journey. The metro system is straightforward. It takes around 45 minutes to reach Trinidade station where you can make most of the connections to your destination.

Getting Around

Porto’s charm is best experienced on foot, even if its steep hills can be a workout. The city’s layout quickly became familiar, perhaps because it resembled Lisbon and certain Brazilian cities I’ve previously visited, perhaps thanks to Google Maps (though I find that some information on opening hours is unreliable), or maybe Porto is naturally easy to navigate. The metro was a reliable alternative for occasional further trips, longer distances, or when our legs needed a break. The Andante card made hopping on and off public transport hassle-free. Buses were also a good option.

However, there was an annoyingly disruptive project for the new pink metro line in the city center.

I get that cities need to grow and evolve. I’m all for it, especially for public transportation! However they could definitely do better when it comes to minimizing the noise and chaos. It made me appreciate how in Paris, most of the construction work is discreet and tidy. I know Parisians might roll their eyes at that, but trust me, the French have it easy in that department.

Porto’s reality

Wandering through Porto is like stepping into a living museum. We went on an evening walking tour booked through Freetour.com, which spanned 2.5 hours of immersive storytelling. Starting at Igreja de Santissima Trindade, we crossed the iconic Dom Luís I Bridge into Vila Nova de Gaia, famed for its wine cellars, and concluded in the vibrant Ribeira district. It was an immersive experience, one that highlighted not only Porto’s rich history but also its present-day struggles. As we roamed the city, it was hard not to notice the many buildings in ruin, with construction projects underway everywhere. At the same time, it felt as though the city was slowly losing its local spirit, replaced by a growing number of temporary visitors.

The surge in tourism and foreign property investments has gradually edged locals out of the city center, pushing them to suburbs like Matosinhos, Gaia, or Maia. This shift raises questions about the preservation of Porto’s authentic spirit and cultural legacy.

Reports and studies have shown that rapid tourism growth in Porto has led to the overexploitation of cultural values and excessive use of urban spaces for tourism purposes, contributing to the erosion of social and economic dynamics in central neighborhoods.

The influx of foreign investment, particularly through programs like Portugal’s Golden Visa, has intensified competition in the real estate market, driving up property prices and making it challenging for locals to afford housing in the city center.

Read more: Culture and Tourism in Porto City Centre: Conflicts and (Im)Possible Solutions

As a result, many residents have been compelled to relocate to more affordable suburban areas, leading to a transformation of Porto’s historic districts and raising questions about the city’s future cultural identity. What will Porto’s future look like in 50 years if the locals are no longer there to carry on the legacy?

Where We Stayed

Our Airbnb was a gem located in the heart of the city, along Rua das Flores, a convenient four-minute walk to São Bento station. The balcony overlooked a tranquil courtyard, offering a serene retreat from the bustling streets. The architecture, reminiscent of my earlier visits to Brazil, added a nostalgic touch. We spent more time than expected in our apartment, especially with the comforts they offered, like coffee and Porto Cruz. The convenience of having a minimarket right at our doorstep meant we could easily stock up on snacks and enjoy cozy & warm evenings indoors, especially when the weather turned drizzly.

Culinary Delights

Porto’s culinary scene is a feast for the senses. We indulged in:

• Francesinha: A decadent sandwich layered with meats, covered in cheese, and drenched in a rich beer-based sauce.

• Pastel de Nata: The iconic custard tart with a perfectly caramelized top.

However, we missed out on:

• Bifana: A spicy pork sandwich that’s both hearty and flavorful.

• Bacalhau: Salted cod prepared in myriad delectable ways.

Maybe next time. One thing’s for sure, Portuguese cuisine is a hearty cuisine. Our guide said it was best enjoyed in eateries where the “old women” cook.

Activities and Sights

Our days were filled with a blend of planned activities and spontaneous adventures:

• Wine Tasting at Cálem: We toured the renowned wine cellar, savoring the rich flavors of port wine, and were treated to a soulful fado performance that resonated deep within.

  Fado is a traditional style of Portuguese music known for its melancholic yet deeply emotional melodies, often expressing longing or nostalgia. It was traditionally performed in intimate settings like taverns or cafés and accompanied by a singer (fadista) and two main instruments: the Portuguese guitarra (a 12-stringed guitar) and the classical guitar. Over time, it has spread beyond Portugal’s borders, but it remains a defining feature of Portuguese musical heritage. Fado was even recognized by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2011.

  The singer’s rendition of Amália Rodrigues’ Uma Casa Portuguesa struck a chord with me, and I couldn’t help but sing along to the classic lyrics.

  Uma promessa de beijos
  Dois braços à minha espera

  É uma casa portuguesa com certeza
  Lá é com certeza uma casa portuguesa

• Livraria Lello: This historic bookstore, with its ornate interiors, is a haven for book lovers. The €10 entry fee is redeemable against a purchase, adds a sense of exclusivity to the experience, and for book lovers, it’s tempting to think you’re getting a deal.

  However, when I visited this time, I was a little underwhelmed. The selection is mostly classics, and while they do have them in multiple languages, it’s not as varied as you might expect from such a famous bookstore. The €10 discount on a purchase? Well, I realized it’s kind of a trick. They’ve just added the €10 back onto the price of the books, so you’re really paying the full amount, just with the illusion of a deal. Still, for those visiting for the first time, the experience can be worth the line and the fee, if only for the chance to marvel at its beauty. I didn’t remember this being the case back in 2016, so the changes in how they operate were definitely noticeable this time around.

• Historic Landmarks: From the intricate azulejos at Capela das Almas to the panoramic views from Clérigos Tower, each site offered a unique glimpse into Porto’s past.

Azulejos are those beautiful painted tiles you see all over Portugal, and they’re more than just decoration. They tell stories, keep buildings cool, and protect against moisture. They’ve been around for centuries, influenced by Moorish designs, and have become a huge part of Portugal’s identity. Today, they’re carefully preserved and restored as a key piece of the country’s history.

We spent a lot of time walking around the historical center, just soaking in the sights and ambiance, you know - #slowtravel, along the Calçada Portuguesa.

Calçada Portuguesa, those stunning black-and-white mosaic pavements, that started after the Great Lisbon Earthquake of 1755 when they used the city’s ruins to rebuild and decorate the streets, our Porto guide narrates. What began as a practical solution turned into an art form, spreading not just across Portugal but also to Brazil and other former colonies. They’re gorgeous and historic, but let’s be real: when it rains, they turn into a slippery, ankle-twisting nightmare (I, for one, should know).

Next time, I plan on taking day trips to nearby cities like Guimarães, Braga, and Aveiro, as well as a cruise down the Douro Valley.

Souvenirs and Memories

Traveling light with just cabin baggage meant we couldn’t bring back bottles of Porto wine or boxes of Pasteis de Nata but the memories were souvenir enough (quite literally, non?). B and I briefly discussed the concept of ‘pasalubong‘ (a Filipino tradition of bringing home gifts), and how it’s an intriguing and debatable practice.

In the end, we picked up a couple of books from Livraria Lello, a craft ring from a street artist, and a Portuguese book at the airport. I almost splurged on perfume, but when it was time to board, I saved myself 60 EUR! And need I mention postcards made of cork?

It’s worth noting is that Portugal is the world’s top cork producer, and you’ll see it everywhere from wine stoppers to bags, hats, and even postcards. The country’s cork industry has been going strong for centuries, thanks to its vast cork oak forests, and it’s all super sustainable since the trees aren’t cut down, just carefully harvested. No wonder every souvenir shop is packed with cork-covered everything!

Looking back, I’m grateful for this trip. Despite a few bumps along the way, it was a great escape. Those bumps are what make it a great story to tell anyway! I most especially enjoyed being able to communicate in Portuguese, even if it was just for a brief chat. It was also nice to have a few moments of reflection, like when I was mistakenly identified as Brazilian, a huge compliment! It happened when a local worker at the metro station approached me to help with the ticket machines. He initially started speaking in English, but while I was working on the machine I initially set in French for Be, and the machine reset in Portuguese, I instinctively answered him in Portuguese. That moment was one of those small wins where I felt proud of my progress with the language.

Aside from the language stuff, there were a few things that stood out during our stay. First off, most stores, traditional Portuguese restaurants, and canteens are closed on Sundays, giving the city a more laid-back vibe - something tourists should anticipate. It also made me appreciate the local coffee shops and bakeries which fortunately were open on Sundays! They’re everywhere, and they make you feel like you could just live here, especially if you live that hippy lifestyle. We also spotted an Açai snack bar, of course we had to go!

Every corner seemed to have the scent of freshly baked goods and that perfect coffee. Honestly, it got me thinking: could I see myself living here? The pace and lifestyle feel right, and the cost of living is much cheaper than in France, especially when it comes to food and services.

That being said, I do have to keep in mind the reality of the Portuguese economy. While Porto’s charm and lifestyle might suit me, it’s not always the most practical. If I consider my long-term stability, I don’t think it’s something that could work just yet. Plus, with my foot injury situation, walking those steep hills every day could quickly become a dealbreaker! But honestly, it’s a lovely city that I’d love to keep coming back to, even if it’s just for a short getaway.

Porto is a beautiful city that I can’t stop thinking about. I’d love to return, and next time, I’ll make sure to dive deeper into the museums and parks I missed this time around. And who knows, maybe I’ll finally make those day trips to Guimaraes, Braga, or Aveiro, or even experience a Douro Valley cruise. But for now, Porto has earned a bigger place in my heart, and it’s definitely a destination I’ll keep going back to.

Biarritz is so much more than just a beautiful ocean retreat. It merges imperial elegance with a relaxed surf culture, where locals parade in their wetsuits alongside grand old facades.

Getting there

Biarritz is well-connected, either by land or by air. We took the train from Paris, which takes around four and a half hours and includes a stop in Bordeaux.

A standard one-way TGV (bullet train) ticket from Paris to Biarritz costs anywhere from €50 to €120, depending on how early you book. If you’re flexible with your dates and book in advance, you can often get a good deal.

For those coming from Spain, driving is a popular choice, and we saw plenty of Spanish license plates, a reminder that San Sebastián is just an hour away.

Getting around

Biarritz is best explored on foot, which is fortunate because we did a lot of walking. The city center is compact, the kind of place where you can accidentally stumble upon a local market or an ocean viewpoint without even trying. It’s quite charming, full of winding streets, boutique shops, and plenty of spots to pause for a coffee or a bite to eat.

For longer distances or when our legs started protesting, the Txik Txak bus network was a reliable backup. A single bus ticket costs €1,30, but we got the 10-ride pass for €9,90, making it an affordable way to get around. You can buy tickets directly from the ticket booths at the stops or the driver. Having small change helps when you pay with the driver. Otherwise, you can pay with your card at the ticket machines or booths.

Bikes and scooters are available for rent at the city center too, but Biarritz isn’t exactly forgiving for casual riders. Buses are frequent and reliable for when your legs need a break, though we did see people attempting the city’s steep inclines on bikes and scooters. Brave souls. It’s doable, but unless you relish an uphill challenge, walking or taking the bus is the way to go.

Basque, surf, and aristocrats

Biarritz is more than just a surf town, it has history. Once a humble fishing village, it became a royal retreat in the 19th century when Empress Eugénie (wife of Napoleon III) fell in love with it. She built a summer palace, now the Hôtel du Palais, and suddenly, Biarritz was on the map. The European elite followed, turning it into a glamorous seaside destination. That aristocratic flair never really left, but today it mingles with a more laid-back surf culture, creating a city that feels both elegant and relaxed.

There it was, Printze txikia! The latest addition to my growing collection.

For a bit of a history fix, we made a quick stop at the Musée Historique de Biarritz, a small but interesting look at the town’s transformation over the years.

One of the reasons I suggested Biarritz for this trip was to experience the Basque people, their culture, and, most intriguingly, their language: Euskara. Unlike French or Spanish, Euskara has no known linguistic relatives. It predates the Romance languages, existing long before modern France or Spain took shape. Somehow, despite conquests, repression, and globalization, it has survived.

You see evidence of Basque pride everywhere: red, green, and white ikurriña flags, street signs in both French and Euskara, and the occasional Ongi etorri (”Welcome”) painted on shop windows. Even the bookstores carry their weight in this linguistic preservation. I was on a mission to find Le Petit Prince in Basque (Printze txikia). The first bookstore I visited didn’t have it, but the second, Bookstore Biarritz, came through. There it was, Printze txikia! The latest addition to my growing collection. Nothing beats the satisfaction of tracking down a book in person. While in the bookstore, I also grabbed a pamphlet on the Basque language to inform myself further.

While most people in Biarritz speak French, throwing in a few Basque words goes a long way. Here are some useful ones:

• Kaixo! – Hello!

• Eskerrik asko! – Thank you!

• Bai / Ez – Yes / No

• Zenbat da? – How much is it?

• Agur! – Goodbye!

A quiet afternoon at the Airbnb, feet up while rocking on the hammock under a palm tree and the August sun, book in hand, with the sound of the ocean in the background.

Where we stayed

From our Airbnb near Plage Miramar, the sea was never far away. That deep, Atlantic blue stretching toward the horizon, occasionally interrupted by surfers carving through the waves. And those waves - formidable, powerful, and perfect for those with a board. Less so for those hoping for a leisurely swim like myself and B. Case in point: at Plage Milady, B got hit by someone who had been dragged by a rogue wave. The lifeguards were quick to act. And I recuperated B from there.

Cue a mad dash to the pharmacy before closing time at 7 PM (because if there’s one thing you learn quickly in France, it’s that timing is everything). I managed to grab some anti-inflammatory cream just in time and put on a cold compress in the hopes that the injury was under control - at least before we headed back to Paris.

Pépite Cookie was our gelato stop in the city center.

What to eat

Biarritz has no shortage of fantastic places to eat, but we balanced dining out with home-cooked meals, picking up groceries from Carrefour City which was inconveniently a 20-minute uphill trek from our Airbnb. (Which, after a long day of walking, felt like an Olympic event in itself, wink.)

When we did eat out, we made it count. Lunch at Le Café du Commerce was a lively affair, a classic brasserie with the kind of warm, effortless service in the heart of the city center. Drinks at Restaurant Biarritz Beach came with a front-row seat to the Atlantic. Since they only served drinks, we followed it up with crêpes at Crêperie Le Blé Noir, a cozy spot along the coast where the galettes were crisp and the cider was just dry enough.

For something sweet, Pépite Cookie was our gelato stop in the city center. A small but excellent find.

What to do

At one point, B decided to go on a hike nearby, taking advantage of Biarritz’s access to some fantastic coastal trails. I, however, opted for something just as rewarding: staying put (I know, the irony). A quiet afternoon at the Airbnb, feet up while rocking on the hammock under a palm tree and the August sun, book in hand, with the sound of the ocean in the background. No regrets.

If not dining, surfing, bathing, or strolling around the historical streets of Biarritz, with more time, we would’ve ventured beyond Biarritz to explore more of the Basque region. Saint-Jean-de-Luz, with its picturesque harbor and famous pastries, was calling. Bayonne, a city rich in Basque culture (and the birthplace of Bayonne ham), was another strong contender. And then, of course, there was San Sebastián just across the Spanish border, known for its world-class pintxos and stunning beaches. Next time.

What to bring home

If you’re looking at bringing something back from the Basque coast, it’s a little piece of its bold flavors and traditions.

• Piment d’Espelette – This mildly spicy, slightly smoky red pepper is the pride of the region. Used in everything from sauces to chocolate, it’s a perfect culinary souvenir. Look for it in small glass jars or decorative cloth bags at local markets.

• Basque Linens – Traditional Basque textiles, with their signature stripes and sturdy cotton weave, make great kitchen towels or tablecloths. They’re both practical and beautifully designed, a subtle nod to the region’s heritage.

• Gâteau Basque – A rich pastry filled with either black cherry jam or almond cream. While fresh is always best, you can find beautifully packaged versions that travel well, ideal for extending the taste of Biarritz just a little longer.

And, of course, when all else fails, postcards never disappoint - a simple, timeless way to capture a place in ink and paper.

Our time in Biarritz was short, and before we knew it, we were heading back to Paris, just in time for B’s Marathon pour Tous 10K run. Was he able to make it despite his injury? Story for another day.

Biarritz is so much more than just a beautiful ocean retreat; it is an accommodation of contrasts. It merges imperial elegance with a relaxed surf culture, where locals parade in their wetsuits alongside grand old facades. Quite French and proudly Basque.

It is a city that is not trying too hard but somehow manages to evade all conventions. A place where time feels suspended, from imposing hotels to shadowy alleys and bookstores, where even a short trip feels like a brief brush with something greater than the ordinary: something both familiar and strangely new.

And whether you come for the sea, for the food, or the culture, Biarritz offers no conditions. It simply welcomes you in and lets you go on its quest.

I have had the privilege to visit this city thrice: in spring 2016, winter 2018, and more recently in summer 2023. However, I have never gotten around to writing about it. I guess that goes to show how much I enjoyed it. Here’s a rundown of Budapest:

Transportation

When you arrive in Budapest via the airport, the most convenient way to reach the city center is by taking a taxi or using the reliable public transportation system. Two buses, E100 and E200 will take you from Terminal 2 to major stops in the city center. Check out the BKK website for updated details on routes and prices. Once you leave Terminal 2, you can easily spot signs that will direct you to the bus stops. Ticket machines are available a few meters ahead of the bus stop. Alternatively, you can purchase your tickets via the BKK app. There will be people by the stop who will assist you in validating your tickets. However, if you get unlucky, they can get a little impatient or snarky so make sure you do your research before arriving.

Other ways to get to Budapest are via railway (careful as there is more than one train station) and regional buses (Flixbus or Regiojet, for example). I have tried all these three methods. A lot of information is available online on how to reach the location of your accommodation regardless of which transportation means you use to get to the city, all are pretty accessible.

The city offers an extensive network of trams, buses, and metro lines, making it easy to get around. BKK offers various ticketing options depending on your itinerary. However, note that every time you change from metro lines to trams to buses, you would have to validate another ticket. The only time you can use the same validated ticket is when you transfer from one metro stop to another, so plan your rides accordingly.

Of course, the best option to explore the city is on foot. If you book your accommodation in the city center and plan your itinerary right, you’re sure to enjoy the sights without going through the trouble of figuring out the transport system. A pro tip would be to pin your destinations in Google Maps to have a quick vision of which areas are close to each other and how you can get around.

I downloaded the BKK app, just in case I run out of physical tickets from my stash, or as a way to figure out routes. However, I only ever used the app for airport shuttle rides. To get around, Google Maps was pretty reliable.

Accommodation

Finding a place to stay in Budapest is a breeze. Whether you prefer luxury hotels, boutique guesthouses, or budget-friendly hostels, the city has a wide range of options to suit every traveler’s needs. Consider staying in the central districts of Pest or the picturesque Buda side near the Castle District.

My go-to search engines are Booking.com (from which I already accumulated several discount benefits and points) and AirBnB. During my first visit, I booked a private room via AirBnB close to the regional bus station, outside the city center, as it was the most convenient and worry-free option to catch my ride out of Budapest. On my subsequent visits, I chose to book somewhere more central, nearby metro stations Astoria and Deák Ferenc tér. From here I could get to most sites in a breeze on foot or via the numerous transport options (bus, trams and metros).

Language

Most Hungarians speak English, save for a lone experience I had at a post office where the agent didn’t speak English but Google Translate saved the day. She was also incredibly patient and helpful and genuinely tried to communicate with me. This said it would still be much appreciated if you equip yourself with useful words such as szia (hi) and köszönöm (thank you) or köszi (shorthand form of thank you).

In the vast family of Indo-European languages that exist in Europe, Hungarian is a language isolate along with its closest language cousins, Estonian and Finnish. Hungarian, Estonian and Finnish are not considered part of the Indo-European language family but rather of the Uralic language family. As an English (/Germanic or romance language) speaker, words could be quite difficult to learn, understand or retain. So you might need to put some effort into it.

Practical Tips

• When to visit: To make the most of your time in Budapest, consider visiting during spring or fall when the weather is pleasant and the city is less crowded.

• Money: Be sure to exchange some Hungarian Forints (HUF) as cash is still widely used, although credit cards are generally accepted. There are a lot of ATMs all over the city, in every nook and cranny. However, avoid those Euronet machines because they charge a lot! Opt for local bank ATMs.

  On some occasions, they would accept Euros but changes still come in forint. I remember during my first trip in 2016, I had my last meal in a restaurant before I leave Budapest and I didn’t anticipate that the restaurant didn’t accept cards (rookie mistake). I only had euros with me which I politely explained to the staff. The staff told me that I could pay in euros, which was a lifesaver!

  Tipping is appreciated and may be anticipated in Budapest. But, service charge is more often than not, already included in the bill so make sure you get a glance at your bill before tapping your card or paying. Most of the bills are produced in Hungarian but “service charge” is easily decipherable (usually towards the end of the calculation).

  To help guide me with the approximate conversion, I use the app called XE available for free download in the Play Store and App Store to give me an idea on how much to expect to pay in my local currency. You will find that in some receipts, they indicate the Euro equivalent too.

• Reservations: Keep in mind that some attractions may require reservations, so plan accordingly. An example of what you can reserve ahead of time is if you’re planning to visit the Hungarian Parliament Building. The schedule for the 45-minute guided tour depends on the language of the tour, which is why it is important to consider reserving it in advance. While purchasing tickets on-site is a possibility, they do provide a disclaimer on the site to reserve them ahead of time to save you time and energy. Ticket sales are done via an official third-party agency which is detailed on their website here.

Food and Dining

Hungarian cuisine is a delightful blend of flavors and influences. Don’t miss the opportunity to savor traditional dishes like goulash, a hearty meat stew, and lángos, a deep-fried dough topped with sour cream and cheese. For a sweet treat, indulge in Kürtőskalács or chimney cake, which you can get at any kiosk on the streets. Budapest also offers a vibrant dining scene with diverse international cuisines and trendy eateries.

Here are some dining options we tried for ourselves:

• Breakfast: Szimply (inside an alley close to Astoria station),
  Free Place Café

• Lunch: TwentySix (Jewish District),
  Belvárosi Disznótoros (canteen-like experience, eat-and-go)

• Dinner: Café Vian (lots of options around Gozsdu Court),
  Szatyor Bár
  Kisharang Étkezde (Cozy family-run traditional restaurant)
  

Attractions and Landmarks

Buda and Pest were originally separate cities on opposite sides of the Danube River. Buda, located on the western bank, is characterized by its rolling hills, historic landmarks, and the magnificent Castle District. Pest, on the eastern bank, is flatter and bustling with vibrant city life, featuring architectural marvels, shopping districts, and cultural hotspots.

On the Pest side, you’ll encounter a vibrant urban landscape with a myriad of attractions. Begin your exploration at the magnificent Hungarian Parliament Building, an architectural marvel situated along the Danube River and a symbol of the city’s grandeur. Stroll along Andrassy Avenue, a UNESCO World Heritage Site lined with elegant mansions, luxury shops, and the iconic Hungarian State Opera House. Don’t miss the lively atmosphere of Vaci Street, a popular pedestrian street perfect for shopping and dining. Stop by the St. Stephen’s Basilica and the Synagogue within the Jewish Quarter.

Take a stroll across the Chain Bridge to reach the Buda side, where you can admire the sites and enjoy panoramic views of the city from atop the hill.

Crossing over to the Buda side, you’ll find a wealth of historical and cultural attractions. Explore the Castle District, where you can visit the stunning Buda Castle, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Take in the panoramic views of the city from Fisherman’s Bastion or the Citadella, and marvel at the intricate details of Matthias Church.

The Margitsziget Park, an island that sits in between Buda and Pest, is also worth a visit. It also features a fountain where you can witness a musical show if lucky. We went there on a Sunday morning and got to see two musical fountain shows.

Of course, what better way to wrap up your visit than by taking a relaxing bath in the famous thermal baths, such as Gellert or Rudas, to rejuvenate your senses?

Thermal Baths

Budapest is home to several remarkable thermal baths that offer a relaxing and rejuvenating experience. One of the most popular (and extremely touristic) is Szechenyi Thermal Bath, located in City Park on the Pest side, just a few strides from Heroes Square. Its grand neo-baroque architecture and numerous pools, including both indoor and outdoor options, make it a must-visit. You can soak in the warm mineral-rich waters while enjoying stunning architecture.

Another notable thermal bath is Gellert Thermal Bath, situated in a beautiful Art Nouveau building. Its thermal pools, adorned with stunning mosaic tiles, provide a tranquil escape. Don’t miss the famous Gellert Bath’s wave pool, where you can experience gentle artificial waves while surrounded by elegant columns and statues. Be informed though that there are far fewer bath options here than in Szechenyi.

For a more traditional and historical experience, visit Rudas Thermal Bath, which dates back to the 16th century. This bath offers a unique blend of old-world charm and modern amenities. The main highlight is the open-air octagonal pool on the rooftop, creating a mesmerizing atmosphere. It’s quite a luxurious experience overlooking the Pest side across the Danube River whilst relaxing on a warm bath. I have read that lesser tourists come here and the locals prefer to go here than Szechenyi.

Tickets to the baths can be bought online or on-site. They cost roughly around 30 EUR, which includes a locker. Add 3EUR and you can secure a private cabin, instead of a locker. Make sure to bring your own towels, shower cap, and slippers to avoid additional purchases on-site. If you lose or forget yours (say you come in spontaneously), there are shops where you can buy these items.

What to take home

I would have wanted to visit the Central Market in all of my three visits but there was never enough time! The market is closed on Sundays though so make sure to drop by on any day during the weekdays. I have seen clips and read articles that this is a perfect spot to dine and purchase gifts to bring home.

Alternatively, we bought our gifts and souvenirs from the local supermarket and souvenir shops. We got packs of sweet and hot paprika and a bottle of Hungarian wine, plus a small chess board as a souvenir. Hungarians are known to be genius chess players so maybe - just maybe - bringing home a chess board from Budapest, they might just rub their chess skills on me. (I’ve played thrice since we came home, I suck haha). As an addition to my growing Le Petit Prince collection, I made a visit to bookstores to get hold of my own Hungarian copy of A Kis Herceg. My first attempt was to hunt the collection of the street book carts “Könyvmentők Könyvszekér” but didn’t find my luck there so I settled for a chain of bookstores - Libri to get my copy.

Budapest truly captures the essence of both old-world charm and modern vibrancy. From its grand architecture to its thermal baths, this city offers a unique and unforgettable experience. No wonder I keep coming back.

Documents

I often tell my friends, I can forget everything except these. These are the first items I ensure I’ve prepared for a smooth and stress-free journey. I carefully safeguard the following identification documents:

• Passport: My valid passport is securely stowed and easily accessible in my trusty crossbody bag, as it is a crucial requirement for international travel.

• Residence permit: My passport is not powerful enough on its own. I ensure I carry my valid residence permit and complete my documentation.

• Boarding pass: How else can I get into my flights? For low-cost carrier flights in Europe, a digital copy is usually enough.

Daily Essentials

For my day-to-day comfort and convenience, I make sure to have the following items readily accessible. They are optional but good to have:

• Rubbing alcohol: This multipurpose item comes in handy for sanitizing hands or disinfecting surfaces. Okay, truth be told, I have this with me all the time, even pre-pandemic. I will be that one person who will always, always have a hand sanitizer dangling on my crossbody pack.

• Mini pack of tissue: Always useful for unexpected spills, quick clean-ups, or public restroom visits.

• Mini pack of wet wipes: These versatile wipes come in handy for freshening up or cleaning surfaces.

• Sunglasses: I find that as I grow older, I become less tolerant of the beaming rays of the sun, and I often have my sole pair of sunglasses along with me so I can enjoy the view even in broad daylight

• Fan: A compact handheld fan provides refreshing relief during hot summer days, ensuring comfort while wandering the city.

• Refillable water bottle: Staying hydrated is crucial, and carrying one keeps water readily available throughout the day.

Hygiene Essentials

Sometimes, things can get a little too intense. Next to identification, maintaining hygiene and preparedness is paramount during my travels, and I include the following items:

• Backup face masks: Post-pandemic, it is essential to maintain a backup supply for personal protection and to comply with local regulations.

• First aid kit: I carry a compact first aid kit with essentials such as bandages, antiseptic wipes, pain relievers, and any necessary personal medications, ensuring I'm prepared for minor ailments or injuries that may occur during my journey.

• UV Sanitizer Wand: After getting rashes from a one-day stay at a cheap hostel in Vilnius, I made sure to get one of these. I’ve seen my mommy friends bring one to prepare their babies’ beds whenever they go on family trips, and I've found it really handy for disinfecting any areas, especially the bed.

Toiletries

Related to hygiene, toiletries! As they say, cleanliness is next to godliness. I have found that most European hotels are less generous with toiletries than those in the Philippines, so I’ve brought some of my bathroom supplies with me. Maintaining my skincare routine and personal hygiene is crucial, and I ensure to pack the following essential toiletries:

• Cleanser: A gentle cleanser suited to my skin type helps refresh and cleanse my face during the trip.

• Serum: I include a hydrating, rejuvenating serum to nourish and revitalize my skin, combating the effects of travel fatigue.

• Moisturizer: To prevent dryness and keep my skin hydrated, I pack a moisturizer suitable for changing weather conditions.

• Lip balm: A nourishing lip balm protects my lips from dryness and chapping, especially during the summer months.

• Lotion: I carry a lightweight body lotion to ensure my skin remains smooth and moisturized throughout the journey.

• Sunscreen: Protecting my skin from the harmful effects of UV rays is essential, particularly when engaging in outdoor activities or sightseeing.

• Retinol: Part of my night skincare routine

• Deodorant: Staying fresh and confident is effortless with a travel-sized deodorant conveniently tucked into my toiletry bag.

• Toothbrush and toothpaste: I prioritize oral hygiene by carrying a compact set, ensuring a fresh smile throughout the trip.

• Mosquito repellent: As Budapest’s summers can attract mosquitoes, packing a suitable repellent helps ensure peaceful, comfortable nights.

Clothing Essentials

For a quick trip to Budapest, where versatility and comfort are key, I carefully select the following clothes:

• Pair of pants with multiple pockets: I bring along one lightweight, versatile pair that can be effortlessly dressed up or down for different occasions.

• Extra pair of shorts: It’s always wise to have a backup option in case of spills or unforeseen circumstances, ensuring a stress-free journey.

• Four tops: To maximize outfit options, I pack four tops that can be mixed and matched to create various stylish ensembles throughout the trip.

• Four pairs of underwear: Having four pairs of fresh underwear ensures optimal comfort and cleanliness throughout the journey.

• Four pairs of socks: Depending on planned activities and personal preference, I include four pairs suitable for walking or athletic pursuits.

• A pair of comfortable walking shoes, which I won’t be packing, as I will be using them while on the run

Swimwear

Given Budapest’s reputation for its inviting thermal baths, I consider the following essentials:

• Bathing suit: To fully experience and enjoy the city’s renowned thermal baths, I make sure to pack suitable swimwear.

• Outerwear: I bring along a lightweight button-down shirt that can be easily layered for when I want to wander around the thermal baths and take a break from the water

• Towel: A compact, quick-drying towel is indispensable for thermal baths.

• Tote bag: A versatile and spacious tote bag is perfect for carrying bathing essentials

• Slippers: I pack a pair of comfortable, easily portable slippers to ensure both comfort and hygiene while visiting the thermal baths.

Electronics

Most of the documents I need, or the passes we purchased, are available electronically. So I make sure I have these:

• Chargers: I pack the chargers needed to keep my devices powered throughout the trip.

• Phone: My trusty smartphone serves as my primary means of communication, navigation, and capturing memorable moments.

• DJI gimbal camera: To document my journey with high-quality photos and videos, I bring along my compact DJI gimbal camera.

• iPad: I use my iPad for entertainment during transit or for relaxation.

• Earphones: these allow me to immerse myself in my favorite music, podcasts, or audiobooks while on the move.

The four-day weekend summer trip to Budapest was a testament to my finely honed packing skills. With careful selection and efficient organization, I packed all my essentials in half an hour, ensuring I had everything I needed for roaming the city and indulging in the relaxing thermal baths. Clothing, toiletries, makeup, electronics, identification, daily essentials, and hygiene supplies - every item served a purpose in enhancing my comfort, convenience, and enjoyment during the trip. While low-cost flights may present restrictions, I am confident that all these items would easily fit within a small bag, offering even greater flexibility for adventures. Knowing my bare essentials and mastering the art of efficient packing, I can go through any journey with less stress and more confidence, feeling prepared enough for new experiences and new memories.

How we got there

Among the many airlines that fly from Paris to Helsinki, the one that best fit our preferences in terms of schedule and budget was Finnair. We thought flying the carrier airline would be the best choice, too, when it comes to service, comfort, and priority. As we will soon appreciate, it was indeed a better choice for what was to come months later, after booking our flights. Most airports and airline company employees went on strike for several reasons. I am not going to go into detail here. To cut a long story short: after-effects of Covid-19-related struggles, the war in Ukraine, increasing inflation rates, struggling purchasing power, and low manpower. These strikes led to either undelivered baggage, delayed flights, or last-minute cancellations.

Where we stayed

We booked a boutique hotel via Booking.com called Hotel Indigo, just a few strides from the city centre, for two reasons: its proximity to the wedding location and to sites, shops, and transportation. From the airport (Lentoasema in Finnish), take either line I or P to Helsinki central train station (Rautatieasema in Finnish). It’s a 20-minute walk from there, or accessible via trams 1, 3, and 6, and alight at Fredriksgatan stop.

How we got around

The Finnish public transport group and application is called HSL. We opted for day-trip passes for unlimited access to and from the airport and around the city, since we knew we would need to get around with the limited time we had. To get from the airport to the city centre of Helsinki, we needed a four-day pass for zones A, B, and C.

What I appreciate most about public transport, especially suburban trains, is the announcements that let passengers know we’re about to leave one zone and enter another, giving them a chance to double-check their transport ticket.

The pass is valid for all types of public transportation - bus, tram, metro, and even the commuter ferry that gets you to the island of Suomenlinna.

Compared to Amsterdam or Copenhagen, I saw few people riding bikes. I wasn’t able to pay much attention to the rental/commuter bikes either.

Where we went

My routine is to join a free city walking tour to get a glimpse of the city. We booked our English tour on this site, scheduled to start at 11:00 am. In two hours, we get to hear about Finland's history, stories about Helsinki, the Finnish people and customs, and food!

The tour starts at Havis Amanda, a fountain and a statue. After a two-minute walk, we entered the main streets of Helsinki that lead to Senate Square, which is surrounded by the city's oldest streets and buildings. It has an architecture akin to that of St Petersburg, Russia, given that Finland was under the rule of the Russian czar Aleksandr III Aleksandrovich for several years, from 13 March 1881 until his death in 1894. In fact, there’s a statue of him right in the middle of the square. Climbing up the stairs, we reached the Helsinki Cathedral, an Evangelical Lutheran house of worship. True to its Lutheran philosophy, everything was kept simple. B says the simplicity makes it look modern and therefore, timeless. I think the simplicity also allows the faithful to focus more on their faith than to get easily distracted by the ornaments usually found in Catholic churches.

A few blocks away, we stopped in front of a bronze statue of a young woman admiring the rising sun, protecting her eyes from its blinding rays, on Rauhankatu Street. This is one of the many statues throughout the capital. It’s supposed to symbolize simplicity and the feminist uprising of Finnish women. Finland, like its Nordic neighbours, is one of the most egalitarian countries in the world.

Further down the road, we stopped at The National Archives of Finland, where the guide showed us one of the many tiny sculptures to spot around Helsinki. Incidentally, this one is Helsinki’s smallest & cutest statue. The purpose of these tiny creations was for people to appreciate the beauty in the tiniest corners of the city, no matter how simple and ordinary they may seem.

We continue on down to the harbour with a good view of the Uspenski Cathedral, an Eastern Orthodox cathedral - visibly more ornate than Helsinki Cathedral. Along the way, we stopped on a corner of Kirkkokatu Street where our guide showed us an odd street sign. Street signs in Finland are often written in Finnish and Swedish. They are not usually the same name, which could freak out foreigners who think they made a mistake. We fell victim to this, too. But what’s unique about this street sign is that it also features a drawing of the street. The guide explained that many years back, some Finns were illiterate. To help them find their way and identify their location, they represented streets with animals. She mentioned a certain unicorn street. Unfortunately, we weren’t able to locate it for the time being.

We passed by Hivalakatu Street, which is hailed as the most Instagrammable street in Helsinki. We appreciated it from afar, but we personally didn’t have the time to actually go through it. The guide had some interesting stories to tell about the buildings along that street.

Storytime: The guide showed us a picture of the Moomins. Looking at the picture, which I took 11 years ago when I received a postcard from a random Postcrossing member in Tampere, Finland, of which I was a member too. To me back then, it was simply a cute picture of what I thought might be a local animation, but now it makes more sense when she talks about it, and I get to see it everywhere myself. They even showed a clip of this during the flight to Helsinki! End of storytime.

The tour ended at the marketplace, just behind the meet-up place of the tour, with a view of Helsinki’s big Ferris Wheel. One of the carriages is a sauna, actually! The actual spot where we parted ways was also the hub to get on a ferry to Suomenlinna - a Finnish military fortress classified under the UNESCO World Heritage site, which we would visit the next day. The tour ended at 1 pm, just in time for lunch. This leads us to…

What we ate

We were told that pastries like an almond cinnamon roll were a must-try. We tried those for the first time at Café Regatta. I had another breakfast bite at Ekberg 1852 Café, which was conveniently located across from our hotel. Research shows that this is Helsinki’s oldest-running café. It’s also worth noting that you can grab coffee or snacks at Robert’s Coffee.

We also had a go at our first reindeer meat (my pretentious vegetarian self wasn’t pleased) from a booth at the marketplace. It was good, a bit dry for my liking, and maybe too much serving, but it was worth a try!

It was quite remarkable to see so many cafés around town. The coffee enthusiast in me is happy! We were told that Finns are big coffee drinkers. According to our guide and this website, Finland is the world’s largest per-person coffee consumer. The average Finn drinks nearly four cups a day. Coffee is so popular in Finland that two 10-minute coffee breaks are legally mandated for Finnish workers.

During the wedding, the couple chose a well-thought-out mix of Asian and European cuisine.

My notes from the road to Helsinki

My 2020 version of myself is proud. Back then, I was reading about Nordic life every day. To me, these people know how to live, and really live. Why?

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